Bulldog Club of Denver

EDUCATION:  HISTORY

The Bulldog is one of the few breeds of dogs that are symbolic of a nation. It may perhaps be claimed, with some justice, that he represents more truly and aptly the English spirit, than does the traditional figure of John Bull.

Authorities differ so completely about the origin of the Bulldog that the name itself is in dispute. While some feel the breed may derive its name from the bull-like shape of the head, others maintain it came from the ancient English custom of using Bulldogs in the sport of bull baiting.

There appears to be little doubt, however, than an early canine species resembling the Bulldog came into existence in the 1500's.

Because of their courage and apparent capacity to endure pain, Bulldogs were shamelessly exploited for many years in the sports of bull baiting, bear baiting and dog fighting. Bull baiting was made illegal in England in 1835 and eventually dog fighting of all kinds was prohibited, resulting in a steady decline in the breed.

Happily enough, the beginning of the dog-show era in 1859 saved this fine old breed. Because of the interest and untiring efforts of a small group of sincere experienced fanciers, this small number of bulldogs served as a nucleus for the dogs of today. Fortunately, this group of fanciers was determined to preserve the fine characteristics and just as determined to eliminate all fighting and viciousness.

EDUCATION:  BULLDOG STANDARD

 

   
 
   
 

General Appearance
The perfect Bulldog must be of medium size and smooth coat; with heavy, thickset, low-swung body, massive short-faced head, wide shoulders and sturdy limbs. The general appearance and attitude should suggest great stability, vigor and strength. The disposition should be equitable and kind, resolute and courageous (not vicious or aggressive), and demeanor should be pacific and dignified. These attributes should be countenanced by the expression and behavior.

Size, Proportion, Symmetry

Size�The size for mature dogs is about 50 pounds; for mature bitches about 40 pounds.

Proportion�The circumference of the skull in front of the ears should measure at least the height of the dog at the shoulders.

Symmetry�The "points" should be well distributed and bear good relation one to the other, no feature being in such prominence from either excess or lack of quality that the animal appears deformed or ill-proportioned.

Influence of Sex�In comparison of specimens of different sex, due allowance should be made in favor of the bitches, which do not bear the characteristics of the breed to the same degree of perfection and grandeur as do the dogs.

Head

Eyes and eyelids�The eyes, seen from the front, should be situated low down in the skull, as far from the ears as possible, and their corners should be in a straight line at right angles with the stop. They should be quite in front of the head, as wide apart as possible, provided their outer corners are within the outline of the cheeks when viewed from the front. They should be quite round in form, of moderate size, neither sunken nor bulging and in color should be very dark. The lids should cover the white of the eyeball, when the dog is looking directly forward, and the lid should show no "haw".

Ears�The ears should be set high in the head, the front inner edge of each ear joining the outline of the skull at the top back corner of skull, so as to place them as wide apart, and as high, and as far from the eyes as possible. In size they should be small and thin. The shape termed "rose-ear" is the most desirable. The rose ear folds inward at its back lower edge, the upper front edge curving over, outward and backward, showing part of the inside of the burr. (The ears should not be carried erect or prick-eared or buttoned and should never be cropped).

Skull�The skull should be very large, and in circumference, in front of the ears, should measure at least the height of the dog at the shoulders. Viewed from the front, it should appear very high from the corner of the lower jaw to the apex of the skull, and also very broad and square. Viewed at the side, the head should appear very high, and very short from the point of the nose to occiput. The forehead should be flat (not rounded or domed), neither too prominent not overhanging the face.

Cheeks�The cheeks should be well-rounded, protruding sideways and outward beyond the eyes.

Stop�The temples or frontal bones should be very well defined, broad, square and high, causing a hollow or grove between the eyes. This indentation, or stop, should be both broad and deep and extend up the middle of the forehead, dividing the head vertically, being traceable to the top of the skull.

Face and muzzle�The face, measured from the front of the cheekbone to the tip of the nose, should be extremely short, the muzzle being very short, broad, turned upward and very deep from the corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth.

Nose�The nose should be large, broad and black, its tip set back deeply between the eyes. The distance from bottom of stop, between the eyes, to the tip of the nose should be as short as possible and not exceed the length from the tip of nose to the edge of underlip. The nostrils should be wide, large and black, with a well-defined line between them. Any nose other than black is objectionable and a brown or liver-colored nose shall disqualify.

Lips�The chops or "flews" should be thick, broad, pendant and very deep, completely overhanging the lower jaw at each side. They join the underlip in front and almost or quite cover the teeth, which should be scarcely noticeable when the mouth is closed.

Jaws�The jaws should be massive, very broad, square and "undershot", the lower jaw projecting considerably in front of the upper jaw and turning up.

Teeth�The teeth should be large and strong, with the canine teeth or tusks wide apart, and the six small teeth in front, between the canines, in an even, level row.

Neck, Topline, Body

Neck�The neck should be short, very thick, deep and strong and well arched at the back.

Topline�There should be a slight fall in the back, close behind the shoulders (its lowest part), whence the spine should rise to the loins (the top of which should be higher than the top of the shoulders), thence curving again more suddenly to the tail, forming an arch (a very distinctive feature of the breed), termed "roach back" or, more correctly, "wheel back".

Body�The brisket and body should be very capacious, with full sides, well rounded ribs and very deep from the shoulders down to its lowest part, where it joins the chest. It should be well-let-down bewteen the shoulders and forelegs, giving the dog a broad, low, short legged appearance.

Chest�The chest should be very broad, deep and full.

Underline�The body should be well-ribbed-up behind with the belly tucked up and not rotund.

Back and Loin�The back should be short and strong, very broad at the shoulders and comparatively narrow at the loins.

Tail�The tail may be either straight or "screwed" (but never curved or curly), and in any case must be short, hung low, with decided downward carriage, thick root and fine tip. If straight, the tail should be cylindrical and of uniform taper. If "screwed", the bends or kinks should be well-defined, and they may be abrupt and even knotty, but no portion of the member should be elevated above the base or root.

Forequarters

Shoulders�Should be muscular, very heavy, widespread and slanting outward, giving stability and great power.

Forelegs�The forelegs should be short, very stout, straight and muscular, set wide apart, with well-developed calves, presenting a bowed outline, but the bones of the legs should not be curved or bandy, nor the feet brought too close together.

Elbows�The elbows should be low and stand well out and loose from the body. Feet The feet should be moderate in size, compact and firmly set. Toes compact, well-split-up, with high knuckles and very short stubby nails. The front feet may be straight or slightly out-turned.

Hindquarters

Legs�Hind legs should be strong and muscular and longer than forelegs, so as to elevate loins above shoulders. Hocks should be slightly bent and well-let-down, so as to give length and strength from loins to hock. Lower leg should be short, straight and strong, with stifles turned slightly outward and away from the body. Hocks are thereby made to approach each other, and the hind feet to turn outward.

Feet�Should be moderate in size, compact and firmly set. Toes compact, well-split-up, with high nuckles and short stubby nails. Hind feet should be pointed well-outward.

Coat and Skin

Coat�Should be straight, short, flat, close, of fine texture, smooth and glossy. (No fringe, feather or curl).

Skin�The skin should be soft and loose, especially at the head, neck and shoulders.Wrinkles and dewlap -- The head and face should be covered with heavy wrinkles, and at the throat, from jaw to chest, there should be two loose pendulous folds, forming the dewlap.

Color of Coat
The color of coat should be uniform, pure of its kind and brilliant. The various colors found in the breed are to be preferred in the following order: 1. red brindle; 2. all other brindles; 3. solid white; 4. solid red, fawn or fallow; 5. piebald; 6. inferior qualities of all the foregoing.

Note: A perfect piebald is preferable to a muddy brindle or defective solid color. Solid black is very undesirable, but not so objectionable if occurring to a moderate degree in piebald patches. The brindles to be perfect should have a fine, even and equal distribution of the composite colors. In brindles and solid colors a small white patch on the chest is not considered detrimental. In piebalds the color patches should be well-defined, of pure color and symmetrically distributed.

Gait
The style and carriage are peculiar, his gait being a loose-jointed, shuffling, sidewise motion, giving the characteristic "roll". The action must be, however, be unrestrained, free and vigorous.

Temperament
The disposition should be equable and kind, resolute and courageous (not vicious or aggressive), and demeanor should be pacific and dignified. These attributes should be countenanced by the expression and behavior.

Scale of Points

GENERAL PROPERTIES
Proportion and symmetry
5
Attitude
3
Expression
2
Gait.
3
Size
3
Coat
2
Color of coat
4
22
 
HEAD
Skull
5
Cheeks
2
Stop
4
Eyes and eyelids
3
Ears
5
Wrinkle
5
Nose
6
Chops
2
Jaws
5
Teeth
2
39
 
BODY, LEGS, ETC.
Neck
3
Dewlap
2
Shoulders
5
Chest
3
Ribs
3
Brisket
2
Belly
2
Back
5
Forelegs and elbows
4
Hind legs
3
Feet
3
Tail
4
39
 
TOTAL
100

DISQUALIFICATION
A brown or liver-colored nose.

 

 

 

Bulldog Health
Bulldog First Aid Kit
Brachycephalic Breeds/Brachycephalic Syndrome
Heat Stroke in Bulldogs
Interdigital Cysts
Bulldog Health: An Overview of Terms
   
   
   
 

Bulldog Health
As with other short nosed breeds, it is necessary to keep a watchful eye on your Bulldog in hot weather or in any stressful situation, making sure he has shade and clean water. Exercise is important for a Bulldog to build stamina and prevent obesity, but don't overdo it, particularly when it is hot or humid.

Like many other breeds, Bulldogs may be prone to a variety of health problems. Before you buy a puppy, ask the breeder about problems in his bloodlines. Hopefully he will be honest with you. Even if both parents are healthy, a puppy can develop any one of the more common health problems from several generations back. This is why buying a puppy should be done with care, and not on the spur of the moment.

Bulldog health problems that may be encountered are: elongated soft palate, small trachea, ectropian and entropian (eyelid anomalies), stenotic nares, and hip dysplasia problems. The average Bulldog life span is for 8 � 12 years.

Not all veterinarians care to treat Bulldogs. It is best that you use a veterinarian that your breeder uses. Click here for a list of recommended veterinarians in the Denver Area.

A Bulldog must have no cosmetic surgery - he faces life as he is born. His ears remain uncropped, tail undocked and dew claws intact. His toenails will require frequent trimming, his ears and wrinkles frequent cleaning and he will need an occasional bath.

As with any dog, always provide your Bulldog with clean water and a correct and nutritious diet.

   
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Bulldog First Aid Kit

Contributed by Lee & Suzy Kramer, club members of the Bulldog Club of Denver

� Benedryl-For allergies, itchiness, etc. Dosage is 1 mg. per pound. The liquid form is easier to dose for puppies. Can be given two or three times a day for adult dogs, every 12 hours for puppies.
� Tagamet or Zantac (decreases stomach acid)-Dosage is 400 mg. per 50 pounds. Give twice a day for stomach upset.
� Cortaid or hydrocortisone cream for itching.
� Instant Ice or Quick Ice (ask your pharmacist)-Use for an overheated bully. This is handy for the car. Does not require referigeration. Chemical reaction causes these packs to become cold. Be careful NOT to lower the dog's temperature below 101 degrees.
� Hydrogen Peroxide-To induce vomiting. Give one (1) tablespoon by mouth every minute until vomiting occurs. Also good for cleaning cuts, abrasions, etc. on skin.
� Vet Wrap--Non-stick tape for bandaging. Also called cling wrap.
� Ace Bandage: can be used to immobilize limb injury or to hold a temporary splint in place.
� Hollow tube-To use as a breathing aid in CPR. Cut the tip off a syringe holder or buy a turkey baster and cut off the bulb.
� Ascriptin (aspirin coated with Maalox)-can be given for pain or to reduce inflammation without causing stomach upset. Check with your vet on dosage. Usually one (1) tablet once or twice a day.
� Clorox bleach and Q-tip swab-For bee stings and mosquito bites. Be careful not to get on clothing or in eyes. Apply topically to stung area to reduce inflammation. To remove the stinger, treat like a splinter and scrape it off to remove. DO NOT USE TWEEZERS. This could squeeze more venom into the wound or break the stinger off under the skin.
� Gauze pads and rolls-for bandaging wounds.
� First-aid tape
� Towels and cloths
� Rectal thermometer
� Chlorhexadine solutions for cleansing wounds.
� Saline solution
� Eyewash
� Milk of magnesia
� Rubber gloves
� Large syringe for oral medication.
� Muzzle (good luck)
� Activated charcoal to absorb toxins in the stomach.
� Pepto-Bismol for diarrhea.

   
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Brachycephalic Breeds/Brachycephalic Syndrome
Dogs with Special Faces
Wendell Powers, relaxing on his home lawn


Most people are not familiar with the term Brachycephalic, but if you own a pug, Boston terrier, Pekingese, boxer, bulldog, shih tzu or any one of the other breeds with "pushed in" faces, you should become familiar with this word. The word comes from Greek roots Brachy, meaning short and cephalic, meaning head.

Brachycephalic dogs have been bred so as to possess a normal lower jaw, that is, one in proportion to their body size, and a compressed upper jaw. In producing this cosmetic appearance, we have compromised these animals in many important ways and you, as an owner, must be familiar with the special needs of your pet.

The Respiratory System

Brachycephalic breeds are characterized by brachycephalic respiratory syndrome, which affects the different areas of the respiratory tract. Fortunately, most dogs do not suffer from all aspects of the syndrome but you should be aware of which your particular pet may have.

Stenotic Nares - This is a fancy name for narrowed nostrils. The brachycephalic dogs begins by having very small nasal openings for breathing. If this is severe, surgical correction is possible.

Elongated Soft Palate - It is difficult to fit the soft tissues of the canine mouth and throat into the brachycephalic's short face. As a result, the soft palate that separates nasal passage from oral cavity flaps loosely down into the throat, creating snorting sounds. Virtually all brachycephalics suffer from this except that in bulldogs, actual respiratory distress is rare. Excess barking or panting may lead to swelling in the throat that can, in turn, lead to trouble.

Tracheal Stenosis - The brachycephalic's windpipe may be dangerously narrowed in places. This condition creates tremendous anesthetic risk and should be ruled out by chest radiographs prior to any surgical procedures.

Heat Stress - Because of all these upper respiratory obstructions, the brachycephalic dog is an inefficient panter. A dog with a more conventional face and throat is able to pass air quickly over the tongue through panting. Saliva evaporates from the tongue as air is passed across and the blood circulating through the tongue is efficiently cooled and circulated back to the rest of the body.

In the brachycephalic dog, so much extra work is required to move the same amount of air that the airways become inflamed and swollen. This leads to a more severe obstruction, distress, and further over-heating.

Brachycephalic Dogs Are the Most Likely Candidates for Heat Stroke

Altogether, the upper airways of the brachycephalic dog compromise his or her ability to take in air. Under normal conditions the compromise is not great enough to cause a problem; however, an owner should take care not to let the dog become grossly overweight or get too hot in the summer months.

Be aware of what degree of snorting and sputtering is usual for your individual pet plus, should your pet require general anesthesia or sedation, your veterinarian may want to take extra precautions or take radiographs prior to assess the severity of the syndrome. Anesthetic risk is higher than usual in these breeds, though under most circumstances the necessary extra precautions are readily managed by most animal hospitals.


Eye Problems

With most of the nasal bones compacted, brachycephalic dogs tend to have trouble with the way their eyes seat in their heads.

First, recognize the prominence of the eyes on these dogs. The boney eye sockets are very shallow. This means that any blow to the back of the head, even a fairly minor one, can cause an eye to pop from its socket and require surgical replacement. This can happen also with too much pulling against the leash if the pet is wearing a collar. You may wish to consider a harness for your pet.

Sometimes, the eyes are so prominent that the lids cannot close all the way over the eyes. This will lead to irritation and drying of the center of the eye unless surgical correction is performed. If you cannot tell by watching your pet blink, watch as your pet sleeps. Dogs who sleep without closing their eyes all the way could do with surgical correction.

Eyelid problems are common in these breeds. Look for persistent wetness around the eyes. In some dogs, the shape of the eyelids prevents normal tear drainage and there is an overflow. This problem cannot be corrected surgically and is not uncomfortable for the pet; however, there is a more serious condition which looks similar. This second condition involves the rolling inward of the eyelids such that the lashes rub on the eye. Surgery may be needed to correct this problem.

Chronic irritation will show as a pigmented area on the eye surface, especially on the side nearest the nose. This is hard to see without a bright light but if it is noted, a search for the cause is warranted. Depending on the location of the pigmentation, surgery may be recommended.

Other Concerns

The normal dog has 42 teeth in its mouth. The brachycephalic dog also has 42 teeth but a lot less space to fit them in. This means that the teeth will be crowded and growing in at odd angles which, in turn, traps food debris and leads to periodontal disease at a far younger age than in non-brachycephalics. The earlier you begin using home care dental products, the longer you will be able to postpone full dentistry under general anesthesia.

Skin fold infections are common amid the facial folds of the brachycephalic breeds. Be sure to examine these areas periodically for redness. The broad headed nature of these breeds makes reproduction a tricky matter as Caesarean section is frequently needed. Difficult labor is common and, as surgical assistance is often necessary, it is important not to breed females with tracheal stenosis (see above). Breeding is best left to the experts.

Altogether, the brachycephalic breeds show plenty of personality and intelligence just as all dogs do, but because of their special needs their owners require some extra knowledge. If you have any questions about your brachycephalic dog, please do not hesitate to call your veterinarian if you have further questions.

   
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Heat Stroke in Bulldogs

Heat Stroke/exhaustion in Bulldogs & sudden loss of air conditioning information.

Every dog is a potential victim of heat exhaustion, but the shorter breathing system of the Bulldog is what puts them at such very strong risk for heat stroke. Shorter airway means less possibility of cooling the air which the dogs draws into its body. Dogs do not sweat. Their only means of reducing built-up body heat is by panting. The leading cause of heat exhaustion, and its advancing into heat stroke; is leaving a dog in a hot car, but there are other things that cause it like the loss of electric in your home on a hot day while yoru at work,ect . Even on a mild day (75-80 degrees), the temperature inside a car can raise up to 130 degrees rather quickly. Leaving a window slightly open will not prevent heat buildup.

Leaving a dog in a car on a warm day is a risk to the dog's life. Remember this saying - "Cars can kill in warm weather".
There are many variables in triggering a dog to experience heat exhaustion; the dog's physical condition, its age, its coat length, its breed, and its climatization to heat. An older, couch-potato, "snuggle the air conditioner" dog will have less tolerance to the heat than a young, romp outside all day, adolescent. Both the very young and very old dogs are among the highest risk categories. All Bulldogs, no matter how well they breath, or how active they are, are at risk from Heat Stroke.

Take the pet's temperature rectally if possible. A normal tempature is between 101-102 degree. A body temperature of about 104 degrees or higher is probable evidence for heat stroke. Place your pet in a tub of cool running water or spray with a hose being sure the cool water contacts the skin and doesn't simply run off the coat. Thoroughly wet the belly and inside the legs. In extreme cases use a ice pack under the neck andfront leg pits. Take a rectal temperature if possible to know when to stop cooling. A safe temperature is below 103 degrees to stop the cooling process.

The first signs of heat exhaustion:
a) Excessive panting
b) The skin on the inside of the ears becomes flushed and red.
Heat Exhaustion can progress in to Heat Stroke, as indicated by:
a) Weakness
b) Staggering
c) Fainting - loss of consciousness Heat stroke is an emergency situation. If your dog shows signs of heat stroke, you must cool him down as rapidly as possible. Don't wait for veterinary treatment. Heat Stroke is an Emergency - Treat the dog NOW! DO NOT try to force your dog to drink. His swelling airways can cause any liquid he takes in to be regurgitated and possibly aspirated into his lungs. However if a dogs temperature is 105 or higher rub a piece of ice on his tongue, 10 seconds on, 10 seconds off. Hose the dog down with cool water - not cold. Apply an ice pack to the dog, and soaked towels or any other form of fabric to their body.

If at all possible, get him into a tub of cool water -- again, cool - not cold! However, in an extreme emergency if cold is all there is, use it. If none of this is working, a cool water enema can help to cool the dog internally. Be careful not to induce to rapidly, or with water cooler than a few degrees below body temp, or you can put your dog into serious shock. As your dog is panting, his airways are swelling, causing him to pant harder yet again. You need to break this cycle. Children's allergy treatment Benadryl can be administered by mouth from dropper. Consult your vet in advance, or by phone is necessary, for exact dosage. Better still is to obtain a supply of injectible Benadryl to keep on hand. Do not stop treatment until your dog's body temperature is below 103. As soon as the dog's internal temperature has stabilized at a near normal level transport the dog to your vet. Heat stroke can leave permanent damage.

NONE of the above treatments are substitutions for veterinary care -- whenever possible, do them enroute to the very closest veterinary clinic. Many dogs will play until they drop. You must supervise the games, and determine when it is time to stop. During hot weather limit your dog's time outside. Be sure that there is a shaded area for your dog to rest in and that your dog has a constant supply of clean water. Never, EVER underestimate your dog's susceptibility to heat stroke. Limit their exposure to temperatures which you might personally find only mildly hot, be conscious of your dog's proximity to hot pavement, NEVER leave your Bulldog in a locked car in even mild weather, and always allow them lots of access to fresh water, shade, and cool areas to escape from heat.

Prevention and Preparation
Of course, the main weapon in prevention of heat stroke is common sense. As we outlined above, be alert to your dog's actions and responses, and be aware of the fact that what may seem like temperate weather for you may be entirely too hot for your dog. Limit activities in hot weather, avoid contact with pavement and concrete, and provide access to shade, fresh water and cooler areas indoors. There are several good cool coats and cool packs on the market to help your dog maintain a lower body temperature. Pet stores carries a full line of cool bandanas, coats, wraps, mats and collars, all made with an absorbent nontoxic polymer crystals that can stay cool for days without needing refrigeration. Take a look at their selection for more information.

What if you have lost power to your home, or the air conditioning has went out on a hot day:?

Simple follow the cooling procedures above to keep your dog cool. Plenty of fresh water will help. Also you may want to fill a tub 1/3 the way full and allow your dog to rest in it, a cool tile floor will help the dog and you can even spread a bag of ice on the tile floor so they can arrange and adjust to there desire to keep them cool. You may also get a few buckets of ice and a fan, aim the fan down on the buckets of ice and that will cool the temperature down a great deal in the home, close all windows, bring the shades down over any window in your bathroom to keep the sun out and make it dim in the room, turn fans on, allow the water in the tub to be there and the ice buckets. This will keep things much cooler.

You may also take the dog for a ride in an air conditioned car, go to a pet store with your dog and walk around a few hours in the cool store, go to your vets, board the dog at your vets, even a police station will usually allow you to sit in the lobby with your dog. You can also go to a friends home or relatives place, ask a co worker to allow your dog to stay for a short time, or rent a hotel room for the night! There is many options to you. Keep them Bulls cool!

   
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  Interdigital cysts


Interdigital cysts are actually a cellulitic form of deep tissue pyoderma (skin infection). Cellulitus is a condition in which inflammatory fluids are forced into the tissues, rather than being discharged on the surface. Interdigital cysts are characterized as a firm, nodular thickening of the interdigital web. These cysts generally exhibit active stages of deep draining tracts of large pustules in one or more interdigital spaces.

Interdigital pyoderma tends to be chronic in nature, therefore a thorough search for the underlying cause is essential. This search can consist of skin scrapings, bacterial cultures and sensitivity tests. Most often the causative factors are found to be infection with staphylococci, ingrown hairs or blockage of a sebaceous gland. Though in some cases a genetic predisposition is suspected, which will necessitate intermittent lifelong antibiotics to control the symptoms. In some cases, the cyst is removed under general anesthesia followed up by appropriate antibiotics.

In many cases, interdigital cysts can be eleviated, if only temporarily, by home treatment. Home treatment should not be attempted by novices, it is however a step available to those experienced in dogs and the possible repercussions of interdigital cysts. The following is a brief outline of one fairly successful home treatment course.

Treatment of Interdigital Cysts:
a) first thoroughly clean the area.
b) soak the paw in warm water with Epsom Salts. Some people find it easiest to soak all 4 feet at the same time by standing the dog in a bath tub.
c) Do not allow the dog to drink the water.
d) Soak for approximately 10 minutes.
e) Dry area thoroughly.
f) apply Panalog ointment to the area. or use preparation H.
g) repeat daily until swelling has been gone for 3 days.

   
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  Bulldog Health: An Overview of Terms

The best medical advice anyone can give you is, "Find a veterinarian who knows and likes Bulldogs." This is one of the reasons it's a good idea to join your local Bulldog Club. The members can usually refer you to a veterinarian who is familiar with Bulldogs and who likes them. Some veterinarians don't like Bulldogs, and no matter how good a veterinarian is, he's not right for your Bulldog.


The best proactive course is to know your Bulldog. Check the entire dog daily. Know if he isn't eating, if he isn't playing, if he doesn't seem quite right. There are several minor ailments you can treat at home. Remember that if a home remedy doesn't cure the problem in two days, take the dog to the veterinarian. Also remember that there are medical condition which cannot wait the two days. When in doubt which it is, err on the side of safety for your dog.


As with people, dogs require careful attention to their physical and emotional needs and to their diet. In order for dogs to live happy, productive, and long lives their owners need to be aware of the everyday health requirements as well as be on the look out for any sudden physical changes. This section provides viewers with various hints and tips on general health care, medical terms and what they mean, and alerts on immediate health concerns.


Nutrition plays an important part in the development of a puppy into adulthood. Care must be taken to be sure that dogs are fed proper nutrition to meet their developmental needs at the various stages of their lives. Nutrition encompasses the proper diet combined with vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients that will help dogs fulfill their life span.


Bulldogs are generally a healthy breed, with much dependant upon the breeder from whom the came. A good start will usually give you years of fun and love from the old sourmugs. A Bulldog should see a vet for shots and checkups regularly. You should also consider spaying or neutering your pet since there are health advantages to that as well. There are many who will think "Breeding" as soon as they get a bulldog. Well, it's not a good choice for the average family pet. Breeding is very difficult and expensive with the bulldog. It's best left to those who have devoted a lifetime to the breed and know what to do and how to do it. Breeding will not improve the health or happiness of a dog and in some cases breeding is fatal. The average life for a Bulldog is around 10 or so although there are many who live years beyond that. A Bulldog needs to be an indoor dog or have the proper air conditioned kennel. Bulldogs can't swim well at all and extreme caution should be taken when a Bulldog is around water to avoid drowning. Although they should be kept out of deep pools, a few inches of water in a kids pool outside is a welcome site to most Bulldogs.

The Bulldog appreciates a daily outing but cannot tolerate hot, humid weather. He should not be expected to jog or walk great distances, or to jump from any height. Most Bulldogs wheeze and snore, and some drool slightly. Coat care is minimal, but facial wrinkles and any folds around the tail (which can be deeper than you think) should be cleaned daily.


The Bulldog's heavy-set, low-slung body gives it a low center of gravity. His limbs are sturdy, his gait loose-jointed and shuffling.

Major health concerns: canine hip dysplasia, keratoconjunctivitis sicca, stenotic nares, elongated soft palate, shoulder luxation, internalized tail
Minor concerns: entropion, ectropion, distichiasis, elbow dysplasia, cherry eye, patellar luxation
Occasionally seen: urethral prolapse, vaginal hyperplasia
Note: Precautions must be taken when anesthetizing a Bulldog. Caesarian deliveries are commonly needed. An experienced Bulldog vet is always your best choice.


Medical terms and more information:

Pills and capsules
Open the dog's mouth, push the pill or capsule as far down his throat as possible, then hold his mouth shut and stroke his throat until he swallows. Or wrap the pill or capsule in a bit of ground beef or cheese and feed it to the dog.


Vomiting
For minor upset stomach Pepto Bismol or a similar medicine can be used. Dose is according to the dog's weight. If there is hard vomiting or if the upset lasts more than 24 hours, take the dog to your veterinarian.


Diarrhea
Kaopectate can be used for minor diarrhea. Dose amount depends on the dog's weight. If the diarrhea continues longer than 24 hours or if there is blood in the stool, take the dog to the veterinarian.


Hot Spots
These are red, irritated, weeping, itchy spots. They can be caused by allergy, insect bites, or flea allergy dermatitis. Clean the area thoroughly. You can wash with shampoo, rinse and dry. Or clean with Baby Wipes with lanolin and aloe. Or wash with Bigeloil. Then apply a medications such as Panalog, Bag Balm, Sulfadene, or 1% cortisone cream. Clean and apply medication daily. You should see improvement by the second day. If not, go to the veterinarian.


Interdigital Cysts
This problem appears as a red swelling that pops up between the dogs toes. First examine the paw carefully, especially the underside between the pads to be sure there is no foreign matter (a thorn or such). If there is, take it out. Clean the area. Remedies include: (I) Soaking the paw in warm water and Epsom Salts, dry and rub in Panalog, or (2) Use Preparation H, or (3) Have your veterinarian make this up for you: One part 60% DMSO, one part Gentavet solution 50 mg. per ml. Apply one drop per day; rub in with a Q Tip. Do NOT use more than one drop, do NOT apply more frequently than once a day. (Touching your skin with it can cause a garlic taste in your mouth.) If you start application at the first sign, this solution will prevent the cyst from developing. With all these treatments, it's best to continue the treatment for two to three days after the cyst is gone.


Fungus Spots
These are somewhat like hot spots, but they are not weepy. Be sure you clean away all the "scabby" material. Wash the area and treat with Panalog, Keflex, or any good anti-fungal ointment. You can use Demorex shampoo or a sulfur based soap for the washing.


Facial Acne or Eczema
Bulldogs are forever putting their faces into all kinds of strange places and can get pimples on his face and chin. It can also be caused by using plastic food or water bowls because bacteria collects in the scratches of the plastic and some Bullies are susceptible to topical bacterial infections. Usually you can clear these up just by washing and rubbing in an anti-biotic ointment. Or you can try OXYIO (benzoil peroxide) which you can purchase at a drug store. If they persist, you will need to get an oral anti-biotic medication from your veterinarian.


Eyes
Dust, wind, pollen, the things that make your eyes burn and water have the same effect on your Bulldog. You can rinse the eyes out with a eye solution (such as Clear Eyes).


Cherry Eye
The gland which normally resides under the lower eye lid at the inside corner of the eye will sometimes "pop" out. This is not as horrible as it appears to be and does not require emergency treatment. It does require treatment at the earliest possible time by a veterinarian recommended for Cherry Eye. The quicker the dog gets treatment the better the chance for successful treatment without removing the gland. Removal of the gland often results in a "dry" eye which will require ointment the rest of the dog's life.


Tail
Some Bulldog's have their tail set in a pocket. If yours does you will need to make a special effort to keep that pocket clean and dry. Wipe it out frequently. Be sure to dry it thoroughly and apply an ointment such as Panalog or a drying powder.


Temperature
You take his temperature just as you take a small baby's - rectally. Use a good rectal thermometer, lubricate generously with Vaseline, insert gently. Hold onto the thermometer, dogs have been known to "suck" them in. Unlike the four to five minutes it takes in a child to get a reading, a Bulldog only takes about a minute to read. Normal temperature for most dogs is from 100.5 to 102.


Insect Stings
If your Bulldog is stung by a bee or other insect, give him Benadryl (either capsule or liquid) and watch him closely for the next half hour. You may also apply an ice pack to the area where he was stung if you know where it is and remove the stinger if it is still in the bite.


NOTE: Specific dosage have not been given here for several reasons. First, we are not veterinarians and do not have the right to prescribe medications or doses. Second, Bulldogs come in many different sizes and there is no way to assure correct dosage.

   
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